"I'm pretty superstitious, I want to do everything right, get my routine right, and I wait for waves. I kinda try to sense the ocean coming together for me."
"I still get the feeling I got when I started, that's why I'm still doing it after all these years, I still get that full adrenalin rush before I compete."
"I remember thinking, 'Far out, I can't believe this,' when I started riding waves. Then I was starting to imagine where it could take me."